Wednesday, 13 August 2008

F*&%ing Good Birthday Bucket

On Friday we were delighted to find out that the Irish couple, Justin and Veronica, had, by coincidence, arrived in Ko Pha Nagn and were staying in the same apartments as us. After our emotional reunion, Silvia and I went to the beach we had been on with the sunset on our first night for the last time (boo hoo) and soaked up every minute of it. By this time it had really become real that we actually had to leave Thailand some time, whereas before it had felt like we had all the time in the world......

Justin and Veronica met us for some beers at sunset where Silvia got very friendly with a dog (see picture)!!! We all sat on the beach and watched the sun go down.....it was just as beautiful as the first night :) After some good banter and a couple of Changs (6.2% thank you very much, whoa, almost like Belgian beer!) we headed into town on Justin and Veronica's motorbikes for a cheap dinner (we had to be careful as our funds were dwindling and we had to save money for the night's drinks as it was hoped it was going to be a big one for my birthday.... 28 after all!!!).

After the meal we went and had a "Bucket" (see picture) (you choose a quarter bottle of any spirit and team it with any mixer, its huge, a bucketfull, in fact!) on the Full Moon Beach. Justin and Veronica bought me the "Birthday Bucket", which was lethal (as far as I know it was Thai whisky, red bull and something else), and Silvia bought me some orchids (see picture). Apparently you can't leave Ko Pha Nagn without having a bucket or a garland, its a crime. A t midnight, Justin got the bar staff to come and sing happy birthday to me, although they weren't happy about it, they looked positively terrified!!! I appreciated their efforts though!!!!

We returned to our apartments only to find it looking like an MTV Spring Break Celebration. Girls in their bikini's at the poolside with beers in their hands. As Silvia and I are a little more reserved, we opted to jump into the pool with our clothes on after having guzzled a beer (see picture post jump). Aftersome dancing (and more beers) we decided to go for a swim in the sea... probably not a good idea given the amount of alcohol we had consumed, but it seemed like a great idea at the time! I ended up with pins and needles in my hands and feet, but it was worth it. Went to our beds at 5 and slept through to 9.30 due to the fact that we had to get up to catch the ferry to the mainland to make our way back to Bangkok. Given the previous nights shenannigans, I spent the first few hours of being 28 feeling positively wretched and throwing up in the toilet on the boat - horrendous is the only way to describe it. Quite a contrast to the night before :) Hello year 28.

Beach Babies and Film Buffs

On Tuesday night we walked into town to check out what Ko Pha-Ngan - tho it wasnt easy, we must have asked about half the people in the hostel how to get there and they just kept on telling us that the restaurant was in the hotel, it was like the twilight zone - had to offer. Finally we found an English speaker who told us we could walk it in 10 minutes so we headed off along the dirt track in the dark (yes, very safe!) and into town.

After thankfully arriving on the Full Moon Beach safe and sound we went in search of something to eat, and found that every restaurant was playing movies and even more exciting for me, Friends non stop (see picture) !!! So we settled in a restuarant which was playing "Knocked Up" and had dinner. We went for a massage afterwards, which turned out to be one of the best ones we had had on the whole trip. After that we went back to watch "The Breakup"at 23.00 in the same bar (as we had been being grandmas for the past few nights and figured we could stay up past midnight and not turn into pumpkins) Although we figured that they didnt really want us to be there as the barstaff kept on talking really loudly and we had to move 3 times so that we could hear the film!!

On Wednesday we decided to go to the Full Moon Beach during the day as it had seemed so beautiful the night before. We weren't disappointed (see picture). Its amazing, clear blue water, soft sand and cliffs as the backdrop. Its a wonder how they keep it so nice with all the parties that go on there..... We had breakfast in a cafe that showed Friends non stop and ended up staying for about 5 episodes as its so addicitive....

After the beach we went to watch another film (we were really getting into it - film buffs now!) but couldnt find anything we wanted to watch and ended up being lured into a bar with buy one get one free cocktails on happy hour (although it was happy hour all night, so I dont think you can really call it happy hour - more happy night) which was playing films, but they were all really rubbish. We ended up spending 1200 Baht, of which only 120 was for food. You can only imagine the consequences (see picture).

On Thursday we went to the Full Moon Beach again and to the same place for breakfast and Friends and then went for one beer (which was difficult given that we had drank the bar dry the previous night) at this chill out bar after our tanning. The owners were all totally stoned, but very nice nevertheless :) We then went and watched Juno, covering our eyes as we passed the bar with the happy hour cocktails. A quiet night, but all in good preparation for birthday night and the pool party at our apartments the following day....

Wednesday, 6 August 2008

The three S's......Sunburn, seafood and sunsets!!!

On our first day in Ko Samui on Friday we just chilled out, slept a bit and went for a nice dinner (see picture). We scouted the main street for bargains initially, but settled on a rather pricey seafood menu, as we felt that we had been through the mill to get there and that we deserved it. We were served by the nicest waiter, from Burma. He was so sweet. A bit different from the Belgian customer service we're used to!!! We had lobster, king prawns, crab, squid, clams, red mullet and a few carafe's of white wine - was amazing!!! After that we just had a beer to round off the night and went to bed - all that eating and drinking took it out of us!!

On Saturday morning we had breakfast by the sea and hit the beach. It was boiling and it became apparent by about 16.00 that I, Amy, was EXTREMELY burnt. I rushed to a cold shower to minimise the damage and Silvia got some aftersun. You could have cooked eggs on my thighs. While I was suffering, Silvia was socialising with some French guys we had met on the beach. They said that they were going to a party on the beach later that night so we met them after we had dinner. I was still very much in pain but I persevered for the sake of a bucket of red bull and thai whisky :) Silvia didnt sleep a wink that night as a result of all the caffeine!

I spent a sleepless night that night on account of my sunburn and stayed in the room all day the following, watching channel V (asia's MTV), while Silvia stayed on the beach with the French guys. It was lucky we met them- especially as they gave me some super powerful cream for sunburn which I think really saved me from it being much much worse!

On Sunday night we went for dinner on the beach with the French guys. It was so picturesque. We had tiger prawns and squid, which was weighed according to how much we wanted. During the meal we were under attack from some idiots setting off fireworks however, so it wasnt quite as relaxing as we had hoped! There were also little mini crabs running about our feet.... I thought they were quite cute, but Silvia was not so impressed :)

After our meal we went to the market, where you can buy all sorts of crap and tat, but we didn't buy anything, we were just there for the snakes. Big massive phythons, which somehow, impossibly, Silvia did not see and asked where they were afterwards......

The night was rounded off with a Singha beer in an Irish pub (see picture), accompanied by live music, such as "Zombie" and "Dont Look back in Anger". Oh so exotic.

We were meant to travel to Ko Pag Nan on the Monday but as my sunburn was still pretty painful, we decided it would be best to stay another day. Luckily the French guys were still there, so Silvia was not left on her own on the beach :) Luckily for her though, the French guys spotted a famous French TV chef (whose name unfortunately escapes us) presenting on the beach by our hotel. We were clearly staying in a very classy establishment :)

As the burn was getting better though, we went for lunch, played a few games of cards with Sylvain, one of the French guys and took some pictures of the beach (see picture). Once they left we decided to have a little swim. This was the first time in the water for me, Amy, since that fateful Saturday..... and it turned out to be our most favourite moment of the trip so far. The sunset was beautiful and the atmosphere like nothing we had experienced before. Very magical! After that we went for a cheap dinner, but which was possibly one of the best we have had in Thailand up until now. It looked like the Thai version of a European beer hall and was packed, but the food was amazing. Although once again, the food proved to be too spicy for Silvia's delicate stomach :)

We set off for Ko Pag Nan on Tuesday morning. It took only 30 minutes and we were on the beach by 14.30. We had a lilttle bit of beach all to ourseleves, which had one fo the best sunsets we have ever seen (see picture). Watching it, we had a beer and marvelled at the sight. Our accomodation is on Sunset Beach (hence the sunset!) and is a bit shabby, but full of young people and has good food and even holds pool parties :)

Sunday, 3 August 2008

Farewell Mekong, Hello Samui!

We arrived in Nong Khai on Thursday and took a tuk tuk straight to our guest house. Sadly our first impressions of of the place were less than good. It seemed to be a bit of a dump and we found ourselves wondering why the Lonely Planet had told us that it was a "charming place where travellers find themselves staying longer than expected". Fortunately however, when we arrived at the guesthouse we were pleasantly surprised :) The staff were lovely, the accommodation and food were cheap and it lay right alongside the Mekong River (we will never be rid of that river.....). We had to move rooms to start off with though as they seemed to be building something right outside our window, and after the night we had just had on the bus we really needed some well deserved shut eye! We were later allocated a super romantic, beach-type shack with a four poster bed :) Bit more expensive (8 euros) but it was worth it! And it had a mosquito net! Good job though, as as it was we got eaten alive - we had about 20 bites between us by the time we left....
Our one night stay in Nong Khai consisted of not very much. It rained on our first afternoon (see video). We ate, slept, drank beer, talked to these two German girls we met, Elke and Anna, and went on a few walks up the promenade (see picture). There was a 21st birthday party on for one of the girls who worked at the guest house and we were invited, but we were so shattered we just went to bed - we are party central. We were just looking forward to getting on the overnight train to Bangkok the following day in order to take our flight to Koh Samui :)
We arrived to catch our train at 19.00 at just after 18.00 only to find out that the travel agency in Luang Phrabang had told us the wrong time of the train. We were really anxious so we thought we better just get on the train; it had already arrived. However, the guard took one look at our tickets and refused to let us on. He said we should have got on in Vientienne in Laos, at the border. We pleaded and pleaded with him to let us on, saying that we had paid almost 4000 Bath for the tickets (around 80 euros, which is A LOT of money in Thailand) we were both almost crying (Silvia did an especially impressive performance - I, Silvia, was born to be an actress ...), but he just said no. In the end a random guy said he would help us and got us two tickets, and we jumped on the train not with a second to spare.
When we looked at the tickets he gave us we discovered that we had two different ones, one 3rd class (you are practically travelling with the animals) and one 2nd class, which was a bed. We were so depressed. We had another 13 hours to go on the train and we didnt want to split up and go in separate seats. 3rd class was actually quite scary and we couldn't have slept because we couldn't leave our stuff because it could have got stolen. It was the lowest moment of the trip. We just felt ripped off, empty and tired. I just wanted to go home.
After a while of just staring out the window at nothing in particular, we decided to try and speak to someone about what had happened. We took our stuff to the 2nd class and found a guard, who luckily spoke some English and was willing to listen to us. We were outraged that there were two beds sitting there in 1st class with our names on, but that we just weren't allowed to get on because we didnt get on in Laos.
The guard let us sit in the little compartment between the carriages and listened while we told him what happened. Then another person came along, and another, and another. It seemed the whole train knew what had happened to us. We couldnt understand what they were saying, but we got the gist. Or so we thought. The guard then went on to tell us that we had been ripped off by the travel agency that we had bought the tickets from in Luang Phrabang. Our ticket wasn't real and they had told us the wrong time of the train so that we would have missed it and never been any the wiser, because we would never have tried to get on the train. We were gutted. There was no bed for one of us. In the end the guard told us we could share one bed if we paid him about 5oo Bath. We accepted as we already felt awful and squeezed ourselves into a bed less than the size of a single one. The night was helped along by a few Singas and tiredness, but we were so upset about the whole situation it took us a while to get to sleep.

We thankfully arrived in Bangkok safe and sound however and made our way to the airport in what can possibly be described as the most terrifying taxi ride of our lives - seriously this guy was a car crash waiting to happen, I was RAGING at him, especially considering the events of the past evening.

Once we arrived in Koh Samui we had left our troubles behind (see picture). The flight was great and the airport is amazing. It has only been open for 2 weeks. Our hotel is amazing, everything is amazing! We are right on the beach (a bit pricy but we think we deserve it!). See the picture for the towels arranged on our bed when we arrived!
Just a quick note on the flight: the service provided by Bangkok Airlines was excellent, we could wait to check in in the lounge area, with internet connection, papers and food (I, Silvia, ate so much, while Amy was staring at me wondering how I could possibly feel hungry after the slice of panettone and 2 sandwiches with cappuccino I had had at the train station .... ). For the first time in my life I could see Amy happy about flying ... Actually the flight was just 40 minutes, just the time to eat (again!!) and we were there already :)